All the surf mag Instagrams are posting about the waves in New York last week. I was lucky and happened to be on Long Island when all the action was happening. Today I was back in San Francisco. The weather was great. Hot day at Ocean Beach kinda great, but the waves were tiny little suckers. Fine by me, but funny how the Atlantic had all the energy and warmth while the Pacific was doing just enough to let you surf.
Here are a few shots from today. I got out smack in the middle of the workday on account of me being in between jobs at the moment, so while it wasn’t all too awesome it was nice surfing OB somewhat to myself.
I moved to California over ten years ago, but I began surfing way before then – in New York. Whenever a landlocked person or someone adverse to the ocean asks me how long I’ve been surfing they’re usually amazed when I tell them it’s been almost a couple decades. To which I then inform the inquisitive person that I did, in fact, grow up on an island.
Well, I’m back on the island this week and was welcomed home to rippable surf. My brother and I shredded Gilgo on Monday, returned for more on Tuesday but had to give good old Robert Moses a try due to the rising tide. The swell was pretty scattered – a la Ocean Beach, San Francisco – but still plenty rippable.
Chris is the guy going left in the first photo below, and I’m doing my best stalled out turn in the pic that follows.
You may have longer periods of flat spells depending on which island you grew up or current live on, but let’s be sure about one thing – if you’re on an island you better be surfing.
I’ve been taking our camera to more places with me recently. For every 50 shots there are five that turn out Ok. This was a good one. I know so because I posted it on the Gram and an honest to god photographer told me it was a “great photo!” So there’s that. The waves at OB were horrible, as they have been since its spring. The beach is still a fun place to pass time with a Tecate, camera, wife and dog.
Went analog with 35mm film on Long Island this past September. I had these shots developed for a while, but I’m just now scanning them in so thought I’d share. These were taken at Gilgo Beach (good waves) and Montuak (good times).
Whenever it rains you seem to find more abandoned signs on the street, left behind by the homeless youth living in the upper Haight. Forgotten for a slab of dry concrete under some nearby awning. Maybe I’ll photograph all the discarded signs I see that are littering Haight between Masonic and Stanyan. Hang the photos with clothespins on pieces of twine at coffee shops. “Discardboarded”, a photo gallery by Doug. Maybe.
My parents spend a majority of their time in the Catskills, on a budding alpaca, bee, and maple syrup farm. Every once in a while they send photos of the happenings on the farm. From time to time I’ll share those photos here, on a series I’m calling, “Hi from the Catskills.” So we’ll kick things off on the series with a look at ice, fish, and maple syrup shacks.
Last week brought some great waves to Long Island. I decided not to go out on those days. It just seemed way too cold to have to duck drive all day. However, I did paddle out towards the end of the swell and managed to get a few little waves. The photo was taken by Laura Eppig (my aunt). She has been photographing wildlife for years, mostly birds around the Island, and this was her first time shooting someone surfing.
Published December 31, 2013
long island , photography , Surf
It’s been over a month since we posted something, and I wanted to get one more in before the new year. So here’s a “see you later” to 2013 with a few wet pics from one of our last surf checks of the year. “One of the last” because we actually got out for a surf the very next day.
These pics were taken on a complete washout of a day, so there’s no reason to even show you the ocean. A couple teenagers in the parking lot gave us mixed reviews on the surf before we walked through the tunnel under Ocean Parkway. One guy said there was a good swell coming in, and another guy said he wouldn’t go out (he was already in the process of taking off his wetsuit after a less than enjoyable surf). The next day was Christmas Eve, and it was fun. Small, clean conditions. The water temp was cold and the air temp was colder.
We surfed a lot in 2013, and I got to surf in New York twice (which was great).
I hope you enjoyed reading and looking at the posts on this blog in the past year. If you didn’t, too bad, because we’ll continue to post here in 2014
Published November 30, 2013
photography , Surf
Tags: Los Angeles, topanga, van life
This isn’t the Los Angeles I signed up for, but I’m not complaining. I was heavier than usual following Thanksgiving with the in-laws as we drove across the Valley through the canyon ending up at a perfectly mellow right point break.
It sprinkled on and off throughout the morning, but a steady rain began to fall as I put my wetsuit on. We parked in the lot. It cost $8. All the locals park along the Pacific Coast Highway and pay nothing. You surf and you learn.
Two guys my parents age smoked pot inside their red van, which had multiple “FTW” stickers along its side. They were waiting out the rain before they could give the surf a proper check. In Los Angeles this can often times mean smoking 2 cigarettes in a pair of Uggs while the perfectly formed little waves continue to break while you finish smoking 2 cigarettes.
Point breaks are the best and the worst. There’s no real paddle out, but the crowd just hangs in one spot.
The crowd that day was great. Fat dudes with earnings on longboards and decent hipsters with long hair and mustaches who more than likely have blogs and spend their time drinking IPA or Mexican beer as they blog about surf related things.
I hung on the edge and caught the smaller waves inside before gradually drifting my way into the pack. It would have been better without my kelp harvesting leash on. The kelp cost me 3 waves that day, but it’s better than losing my board and it hitting a fat dude with earnings who would yell at me for bringing such reckless abandon to his mellow beach. And he’d be right, of course.
♪ ♫ You take your car to work, I’ll take my board ♪ ♫