Locals Give The Best Directions

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Funny sign now on display at a super-duper “locals only” spot that’s visible only if you look our the window of your car as you drive along Hwy 101.

The most interesting aspect to this act of localism is how Rincon is spelled in ALL CAPS but Malibu isn’t.

Keep Surfing.

Free WiFi

Swimming might be prohibited at Robert Moses State Park, but at least the wifi is free! The beach is one place I never thought you’d need wifi. Free access to the internet is great, especially when I’m at the airport waiting for a flight, but there’s no need for it while I’m running out to surf.

The End of Tourist Season

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(Democrat Point, Fire Island, NY. September 25)

Labor Day has passed meaning so has summer. I realized today summer is for the tourists. You can be sad that it’s getting darker earlier, but that’s about the only thing that should bring you down.

Summer is crowds. It’s paying for parking, and dealing with long flat spells.

Hurricane Hermine recently blew through and produced some of the best days of surfing I have ever seen – the internet is full of pictures to prove it. And then Hurricane Karl produced three days of solid swell to follow that up. I surfed Friday night at Gilgo Beach, got in again on Saturday afternoon at Robert Mosses, and closed out the weekend with a morning surf at Giglo and an evening session at Democrat Point.

Give me fall and you can keep summer.  If I wanted summer all the time I would move to Southern California, like my brother. I hope everyone was able to enjoy the weekend.

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Newport Rhode Island

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That’s my wife Betsy in front of the famous mansion “The Breakers,” the summer home to the Vanderbilt’s located on the coast of Newport, Rhode Island. Newport is one of these towns I love because it’s just frozen in time and architecture. There’s one beautiful colonial home after another. Each one well designed, and unchanged from it’s original structure. It’s also home to Glided age of American home building. Where the industrial leader’s of their time summered in some of the most amazing, over-the-top homes. This is the town John F. Kennedy chose to have his wedding.

I came here to surf a spot called Ruggles. It’s one of the most unique waves I’ve ever surfed.  Mostly, because there is no beach or parking lot.  The wave breaks right in front of these historic homes. I surfed it on an easy chest high day, but I can see the potential for it handling much bigger surf and remaining nice and clean. It’s also one of the best views I’ve taken in from the water.

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Lunch Break

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This is right outside my office. It’s a wave that closes out 99.9% of the time, but not last week. There’s a seal rookery right at the base of the pier, so it’s probably a pretty sharky place too. Looks tempting though, huh, also considering the amount (0) of other surfers out.

Deli Iced Tea as Long Island as it gets

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via @gregmadey

Jonas

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Snow was falling when I woke up early on Saturday. It didn’t stop falling all day. When I went to bed that night it was snowing just as hard as it was when the day started.

Winter storm Jonas crushed New York. Slushy, partially frozen bay water filled the streets that boarded canals. By the time the storm passed, more than 2-feet of snow covered the ground.

As I sat inside on Saturday, snow coming down, I couldn’t help myself from looking at the surf forecast. Sunday was going to be big. Big and good.

I contemplated whether I had it in me to surf the next day. If I had what it took to put on a wetsuit in a snow covered parking lot and paddle out in freezing cold water the day after a blizzard. Meanwhile I was being baited by my younger brother in sunny California with text messages asking, “are you on your way to the beach?”

Well, I made it out! And for the price I paid it was good.

I surfed Lido Beach with about 40 other surfers in the water, and a bunch of people watching from the sand. It turns out the beach is the place to be after a record setting snow storm.

You’re probably saying, “Wasn’t it cold? Why would you surf in those conditions?”

My answer is, Yes, it was cold. Pretty much awful. But it was another day of surfing. It was another day to prove that I’m no “parking lot surfer” who spends more time drinking coffee talking about the waves than actually surfing them.

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Who Knew Leadbetter Broke This Far Out

Well for one, I didn’t know it breaks this far out! But hey what should I know. I’ve only been here for 2 1/2 months. I do know that it’s been a swell run of swell for us here on the central coast. If I had a longboard I would have been way out there today, but the beach at Leadbetter was breaking like I’ve never seen it and there were several screamers to be had on my 6’2.

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The December Ski Report For New York Is Super Duper Sad

It’s December 24th and temps on Long Island are supposed to reach 72 degrees. Sure, you could count the number of white Christmases in New York on one hand, but this weather is bizarre with a capital B. Just check out the mountain cams for these two favorite Ice Tubes ski places in the Catskills.

Windham Mountain where there are apparently three trails open! C’mon man.

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And then there’s Plattekill Mountain who’s not trying to fool anyone into coming.

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These conditions were sorta predicted for the northeast thanks to the famous El Niño weather pattern, but for the sake of these great little NY mountains and the people who work and ski them we hope it gets colder and things start to happen soon.

Thankful For Waves. The Cold Not So Much

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Today my brother sent me a text saying it was 70 degrees outside and that he’d just surfed head high waves. My brother may have recently moved to Santa Barbara, but I’ll continue to surf the cold waters of New York. Not only did he miss out on our mother’s Thanksgiving meal by living in California, but he also missed some good surf in New York this past holiday weekend.

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It’s only the start of the cold weather here, and clearly I’m not looking forward to receiving more messages about how warm and sunny it is in California.

These photos were taken at Democrat Point during the 2015 Thanksgiving weekend.



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