Waves and rain on Saturday. Waves and rain on Sunday. Waves and snow on Monday. Spring has already had its share of good swell, but now we just need the weather to improve on the east coast. Still, March wrapped itself up nicely with a few days of solid waves on Long Island.
I grew up surfing at Robert Moses. Field 4, field 5, and then mostly Democrat Point. Lately I’ve stuck to Gilgo, and if I felt adventurous would drive out to eastern Long Island. Today I went back to Robert Moses and found some little barrels at field 2.
Went analog with 35mm film on Long Island this past September. I had these shots developed for a while, but I’m just now scanning them in so thought I’d share. These were taken at Gilgo Beach (good waves) and Montuak (good times).
I love getting a new surfboard. It’s a great feeling to hold a clean new shape in your hands that doesn’t have wax or dings scattered across the deck. The easiest way to get a new board is to have someone with surfboard shaping experience help you out. An actual shaper with a skilled hand and a trained eye. But the shaping process can be just as enjoyable as is surfing the finished product. The trouble is getting your hands on the necessary tools, a blank, space to shape, and most importantly a bit of knowledge about how to get from a white foam brick to something that resembles and actual surfboard. Recently, I got my hands on all those things.
With the use of my friends tools, a local shop’s shaping bay, and a helping hand I’m trying to learn how to shape. I scaled a shape off of a board I saw online and starting making a mess out of the 5′-6″ blank. It took me almost 5 hours to unevenly shape (and I probably made it too thick) my first blank, but it is starting to look somewhat like a surfboard.
Surfboards, San Francisco, and beer. This photo from Grain Surfboards, which could easily be the coolest ad for Anchor Brewing, pretty much sums up a good time. Anchor Steam drinking surfboard shaping time.
Grain is currently in San Francisco running one of their popular surfboard shaping classes. I’ve never taken a class, but my brother has made several wooden boards from Grain kits and they sure are enjoyable to surf. Here’s Chris braving the elements on Long Island for a few winter waves with one of the Grain surfboards he built.
Published February 23, 2014
san francisco , Surf
Rode my bike to a wave last weekend and gave a new spot a look. Took these two short videos perched on a rock. The first wave isn’t much, but the guy’s turn sent a good amount of spray in the air. The second wave is a pretty good late takeoff wipeout with some added sound effects from another dude sitting on the rocks with me.
I recently saw this picture my brother took of the Great South Bay and was reminded that it’s winter. You see, here in northern California there really are no seasons. The calendar says it’s February, but in terms of climate changes we typically deal in either wet or dry. We should be smack in the middle of wet season, but ask any ski bum with a pass to a mountain in Tahoe how conditions are and you’ll get a depressed response from a guy who ultimately spent $300 to enjoy the lodge. And while the weather’s been nice, the waves have been nonexistent, which has not been the case on the east coast. So I ate my lunch outside today under a warm sun and I thought about the northeast and its winter of consistent snowstorms and better than average surf. So while it’s brick cold outside, at least east coast surfers have waves. Figuratively speaking the grass is greener, but literally not so much, because all that grass really must be dead by now.
Published February 6, 2014
Art , Surf
Tags: Art, print, surf art, tyler warren
I discovered professional surfer/ artist Tyler Warren while checking out the Captain Fin Co. blog. They were featuring a surfboard he shaped, and it turns out he’s not only a great surfer and surfboard shaper, but also a pretty darn good artist. Most of his work is surf or beach themed. I ordered one of his prints and it came numbered and signed by Tyler. It’s actually the first print I’ve ever ordered, and I was totally impressed with the quality. It even came with a personal thank you note written out on masking tape!
You can check out more of his art at Art By Tyler Warren.
The waves at Ocean Beach today were a little too big for my tastes and abilities, but the coffee at Java Beach was perfect. The small sized coffee served at the beachfront cafe is an ideal 10 ounces. Just perfect. I prefer a medium sized wave and a 10 oz coffee.
Last week brought some great waves to Long Island. I decided not to go out on those days. It just seemed way too cold to have to duck drive all day. However, I did paddle out towards the end of the swell and managed to get a few little waves. The photo was taken by Laura Eppig (my aunt). She has been photographing wildlife for years, mostly birds around the Island, and this was her first time shooting someone surfing.
Published January 13, 2014
Tags: ob-kc, ocean beach, surf cam, the beach
via ob-kc just before 10:00 on 1/13/14.
Just as you start settling into the five-day work week, it’s only a matter of time before you instinctively check the local surf cam. Today, I lasted a whole hour before visiting ob-kc for my fix, hoping it might be a sloppy mess not worth waking up for, but instead I saw an empty right hander peeling without a soul in the water. It apparently wasn’t as good as this still shot made it look, but all it takes is one good wave to make a session and this would’ve done it.