Archive for the 'Surf' Category

Happy Thanksgiving!!!

I got up early to meet up with my friend, and found a lot to be thankful for. I hope everyone was able to get a few real nice waves this Thanksgiving.

Sometimes In San Francisco There’s No Telling What The Surf Is Doing

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San Francisco is a foggy place. So much so, the fog here has its own Twitter handle. Heck, the city of Chicago sees more ideal beach weather days than San Francisco. Nonetheless, we have waves and waves trump sunshine (if you must choose one).

One other thought here… How many waves has a surf cam caused you to miss out on? You open your computer browser and the surf doesn’t look worth a drive to the beach so you call it a day and do something out of the water. A crumby wave is better than no wave, yea… So thanks Karl, for the Ok waves last week. Wouldn’t have caught ‘em without you.

I Stenciled My Dog Olive On My Surfboard

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Olive is my dog, and she’s coming out with me whenever the waves are small and fast. I guess I have a bit of time on my hands, and making stencils is a favorite way of mine to fill up that time. I don’t yet have the guts to put one of my stencils in a public area where I might get busted for vandalism, so I tend to stick with placing them on my surfboards. Olive is on my Sperm Whale from Channel Islands, and she might see some action at Ocean Beach mañana given the current forecast.

Kelly Slater’s 540 Air: What Do You Expect From A Guy Fueled By PURPS

Everyone and their mothers were posting this video of Kelly Slater’s 540 air on Internet yesterday, so I thought I’d post it again today! I like Slater’s airs when they’re done in the dark green waters of Long Island, but this one ain’t to shabby. When I texted my brother to see if he’d seen it, he responded with, “What do you expect from a guy fueled by PURPS?” I couldn’t agree more. For those of you not familiar, PURPS is Kelly Slater’s organic, all-natural, from the earth, etc. energy drink. It helped me get second place during a recent tri-sprint.

A video posted by Kelly Slater (@kellyslater) on

Sunsetting The Summer In Montauk

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Summer is officially over, and we have now unofficially kicked off “light jacket” season. But two weekends ago out in Montauk it was still summer – both in terms of sun and the quality of waves that we’ve been experiencing for the past 3 months.

My brother was visiting from San Francisco for the second time this summer, and for the second time we scored good waves. There was nothing special about the spot we surfed – it was simply walking distance from the house we were staying at and with no parking lots nearby crowds were nonexistent.

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Dear Hurricane Cristobal, Thank you. Love, Long Island.

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At about the same time that the west coast was enjoying the spoils of hurricane Marie, the east coast felt the energy of its third hurricane of the season… Cristobal.

While it didn’t bring as much surf media attention as Marie seemed to bring, Cristobal delivered with 4-foot overhead surf that I was both excited, and a to be honest, a little scared about. Keep in mind that this is New York, and a 10-foot wave isn’t all too common an occurrence.

Cristobal generated our best swell of the season, easily, and it was about as big and good as Gilgo Beach could handle.

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“Surfing” Is On TV

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But, so is Everybody Loves Raymond… Wonder who tuned into which?

Tuesday During Summer

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Summer continues to deliver fun waves. If you’re not up early on Long Island, you’re really missing out. Here’s a quick shot from this morning.

Surfing Before The Sun Comes Up

Do you wake up early to surf? For the past three days I have been getting to the beach right before the sun came up, and it’s paid off. Summertime always means a more crowded lineup, and unless you’re still in school you have to go to work all day, so heading out for these pre-dawn patrol surfs seems like the way to go.

Long Island got solid shoulder high waves for the past three days, and I was on it early for all three of them. Waking up at 5am isn’t easy, but the pay off can be worth it.

A Really Cool Cooler

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Surfer and citizen of the world, Chris Del Moro, is pretty handy when it comes to breathing life into would-be trashed coolers. Without having to purchase more plastic products, Del Moro took this old lidless cooler and made it better than before with a well-fashioned wooden cutting board top and sealed in the coolness with a used yoga mat. Check out his Instagram account if you want to say, “What am I doing with my life?”

 

 



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