Archive for the 'Surf' Category

Surfing Before The Sun Comes Up

Do you wake up early to surf? For the past three days I have been getting to the beach right before the sun came up, and it’s paid off. Summertime always means a more crowded lineup, and unless you’re still in school you have to go to work all day, so heading out for these pre-dawn patrol surfs seems like the way to go.

Long Island got solid shoulder high waves for the past three days, and I was on it early for all three of them. Waking up at 5am isn’t easy, but the pay off can be worth it.

A Really Cool Cooler

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Surfer and citizen of the world, Chris Del Moro, is pretty handy when it comes to breathing life into would-be trashed coolers. Without having to purchase more plastic products, Del Moro took this old lidless cooler and made it better than before with a well-fashioned wooden cutting board top and sealed in the coolness with a used yoga mat. Check out his Instagram account if you want to say, “What am I doing with my life?”

 

 

Hurricane Arthur

A hurricane in July is an uncommon thing for the East Coast, but this past Fourth saw the first named storm of the season – Arthur. He brought fun waste to chest high surf in the early morning and like a flip of the switch went well overhead around 6pm. The photo below came from a Fire Island crew that is tight lipped about where it’s breaking.

arthur

Summer Waves

It’s summer time in the North East, which means massive wind-swell surf. Waves with such power you might think twice before jumping in!  Ok… it really means ankle high surf until those hurricanes starting churning down south.  In the meantime get your longboards out and start working on your style.

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Long Beach At Long Last

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Long Beach is only a few miles west of my home break Gilgo Beach, but it’s a totally different vibe. Gilgo is a barrier beach. Just a sliver of sand with a few residential homes lining the bay side. The parking lot is fairly empty this type of year, and when you’re in the water there’s noting staring back at you except for a couple seagulls and rooftops peeking over the sand dunes.

Long Beach on the other hand has a real urban feel. There’s no parking lot with high school kids in toll booths collecting parking fees. You park on the street and you get in to your wetsuit on the street. 6:30am, towel around my waist, I chatted with two guys who were still making their way home from the night before. Friendly guys with opinions on the wave quality. From the water you look back at high-rise apartments, condos, hotels and a beautifully rebuilt boardwalk.

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I surfed at the Lincoln Blvd jetty solely because it’s where a Surfline cam is situated. Lincoln is a good wave and the breaks are more spread out then I thought. It doesn’t break just off the Jetty, which is good for not creating a crowded takeoff spot. I’m sorry it took me so long to drive the extra 15 minutes to find out what a good wave Long Island has in Long Beach.

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Park Bench Barrels

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Check this sweet little barrel we discovered in Golden Gate Park. No need for sunscreen when you get as covered as Ciji does.

Magical Moments From SURFER Magazine

hat making genius

There’s a column in SURFER magazine called Curious Gabe. In it, a guy named Gabe Sullivan drives to various cities in southern California asking local surfers one question. It’s entertaining enough. In this month’s magazine, Gabe asks his interviewees “What makes a surfboard magic?” Hat maker (yep, hat maker), Nick Fouquet, gives the answer you’d expect from a spiritual craftsman like himself and also doesn’t disappoint with his photo. Nick Fouquet you’re awesome.

Little March Barrels

Waves and rain on Saturday. Waves and rain on Sunday. Waves and snow on Monday. Spring has already had its share of good swell, but now we just need the weather to improve on the east coast. Still, March wrapped itself up nicely with a few days of solid waves on Long Island.

I grew up surfing at Robert Moses. Field 4, field 5, and then mostly Democrat Point. Lately I’ve stuck to Gilgo, and if I felt adventurous would drive out to eastern Long Island. Today I went back to Robert Moses and found some little barrels at field 2.

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35mm Long Island

Went analog with 35mm film on Long Island this past September. I had these shots developed for a while, but I’m just now scanning them in so thought I’d share. These were taken at Gilgo Beach (good waves) and Montuak (good times).

turtle cove

ciji

brothers

staying loose

gilgo tunnel

A Day Inside The Shaping Bay

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I love getting a new surfboard. It’s a great feeling to hold a clean new shape in your hands that doesn’t have wax or dings scattered across the deck. The easiest way to get a new board is to have someone with surfboard shaping experience help you out. An actual shaper with a skilled hand and a trained eye. But the shaping process can be just as enjoyable as is surfing the finished product. The trouble is getting your hands on the necessary tools, a blank, space to shape, and most importantly a bit of knowledge about how to get from a white foam brick to something that resembles and actual surfboard. Recently, I got my hands on all those things.

With the use of my friends tools, a local shop’s shaping bay, and a helping hand I’m trying to learn how to shape. I scaled a shape off of a board I saw online and starting making a mess out of the 5′-6″ blank. It took me almost 5 hours to unevenly shape (and I probably made it too thick) my first blank, but it is starting to look somewhat like a surfboard.

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