Published July 21, 2014
long island , Surf
Tags: dawn patrol, Surf
Do you wake up early to surf? For the past three days I have been getting to the beach right before the sun came up, and it’s paid off. Summertime always means a more crowded lineup, and unless you’re still in school you have to go to work all day, so heading out for these pre-dawn patrol surfs seems like the way to go.
Long Island got solid shoulder high waves for the past three days, and I was on it early for all three of them. Waking up at 5am isn’t easy, but the pay off can be worth it.
Published July 10, 2014
A hurricane in July is an uncommon thing for the East Coast, but this past Fourth saw the first named storm of the season – Arthur. He brought fun waste to chest high surf in the early morning and like a flip of the switch went well overhead around 6pm. The photo below came from a Fire Island crew that is tight lipped about where it’s breaking.
It’s summer time in the North East, which means massive wind-swell surf. Waves with such power you might think twice before jumping in! Ok… it really means ankle high surf until those hurricanes starting churning down south. In the meantime get your longboards out and start working on your style.
Long Beach is only a few miles west of my home break Gilgo Beach, but it’s a totally different vibe. Gilgo is a barrier beach. Just a sliver of sand with a few residential homes lining the bay side. The parking lot is fairly empty this type of year, and when you’re in the water there’s noting staring back at you except for a couple seagulls and rooftops peeking over the sand dunes.
Long Beach on the other hand has a real urban feel. There’s no parking lot with high school kids in toll booths collecting parking fees. You park on the street and you get in to your wetsuit on the street. 6:30am, towel around my waist, I chatted with two guys who were still making their way home from the night before. Friendly guys with opinions on the wave quality. From the water you look back at high-rise apartments, condos, hotels and a beautifully rebuilt boardwalk.
I surfed at the Lincoln Blvd jetty solely because it’s where a Surfline cam is situated. Lincoln is a good wave and the breaks are more spread out then I thought. It doesn’t break just off the Jetty, which is good for not creating a crowded takeoff spot. I’m sorry it took me so long to drive the extra 15 minutes to find out what a good wave Long Island has in Long Beach.
Waves and rain on Saturday. Waves and rain on Sunday. Waves and snow on Monday. Spring has already had its share of good swell, but now we just need the weather to improve on the east coast. Still, March wrapped itself up nicely with a few days of solid waves on Long Island.
I grew up surfing at Robert Moses. Field 4, field 5, and then mostly Democrat Point. Lately I’ve stuck to Gilgo, and if I felt adventurous would drive out to eastern Long Island. Today I went back to Robert Moses and found some little barrels at field 2.
I love getting a new surfboard. It’s a great feeling to hold a clean new shape in your hands that doesn’t have wax or dings scattered across the deck. The easiest way to get a new board is to have someone with surfboard shaping experience help you out. An actual shaper with a skilled hand and a trained eye. But the shaping process can be just as enjoyable as is surfing the finished product. The trouble is getting your hands on the necessary tools, a blank, space to shape, and most importantly a bit of knowledge about how to get from a white foam brick to something that resembles and actual surfboard. Recently, I got my hands on all those things.
With the use of my friends tools, a local shop’s shaping bay, and a helping hand I’m trying to learn how to shape. I scaled a shape off of a board I saw online and starting making a mess out of the 5′-6″ blank. It took me almost 5 hours to unevenly shape (and I probably made it too thick) my first blank, but it is starting to look somewhat like a surfboard.
Published February 6, 2014
Art , Surf
Tags: Art, print, surf art, tyler warren
I discovered professional surfer/ artist Tyler Warren while checking out the Captain Fin Co. blog. They were featuring a surfboard he shaped, and it turns out he’s not only a great surfer and surfboard shaper, but also a pretty darn good artist. Most of his work is surf or beach themed. I ordered one of his prints and it came numbered and signed by Tyler. It’s actually the first print I’ve ever ordered, and I was totally impressed with the quality. It even came with a personal thank you note written out on masking tape!
You can check out more of his art at Art By Tyler Warren.
Last week brought some great waves to Long Island. I decided not to go out on those days. It just seemed way too cold to have to duck drive all day. However, I did paddle out towards the end of the swell and managed to get a few little waves. The photo was taken by Laura Eppig (my aunt). She has been photographing wildlife for years, mostly birds around the Island, and this was her first time shooting someone surfing.
For me, the worst part of winter surf isn’t the cold. It’s the small window of time that you have to surf. With daylight savings taking away all hope of surfing after work it leaves us with early morning and the weekends. Now, here and there I can take off a few hours in the middle of a work day to get in the water, but for the most part I’m hoping for weekend waves.
With forecasting sites like Surfline.com and Magicseaweed.com you can pretty much pin-point when Saturdays and Sundays are going to have good surf. This leads you to start making plans for when you’re gonna meet up with your buddies at the beach – throwing around ideas of driving to new spots far from your home break because you have the time. Well, at least this is what happened last week. All week I checked the reports which were calling for a clean head high swell coming thru on Sunday. I was getting a sinking feeling in my stomach with every refresh of the web browser because I was unfortunately going to be nowhere near the beach.
And Sunday came and so did the waves. My friend George was able to get the beach while I sat far from it hopelessly refreshing web browsers. And wouldn’t you know it, clean head high surf just as they called it.
Have you ever read a surf report that called for knee high surf and wondered to yourself what that wave actually looks like? I always have, and now I wonder no more because I scored some pretty fun knee high surf yesterday. Truth is that we get these type of small wave reports all too often on the east coast, and you really can’t dismiss them because they can turn out to be pretty good days. If you can get in the water on a mild October day with knee high clean conditions, why would you pass that up?