[photo: Silas Hansen]
I’ve been mesmerized by this photo from the June issue of SURFER magazine. This is the heaviest, thickest, scariest, sandiest shore break I’ve ever seen. I can’t stop looking at it. For all the variables that comprise the Ocean Beach surfing experience, shore break is rarely a consideration. Maybe that’s why I’m so stuck on this photo.
What’s the next move for this guy?
the only hope for this poor soul is to calmly light a waterproof cigarette, bust out his easel and brushes, and pray that, like in the photo, the wave will stop dead in it’s track and spare him while providing the pose for his masterpiece.